The lady has a bird. And what a one. The magnificent falcon on her arm is two years young and as pious as a lamb. At least that's what his owner says, a somewhat grim-looking bearded man in Bedouin dress. The falcon wears a kind of cap over his eyes, and the lady, who is part of a Brazilian women's tour group, wears magnificent flowing robes.
Photo session on a not-so-desert piece of desert right behind the pool of the Bab al Shams Hotel. If you dare, you can hold the falcon for a snapshot. But only briefly, please – because the camels are already waiting, and they are setting fashionable accents with orange knitted hats over their snouts. A camel with a muzzle apparently appears less threatening.
You get on with lots of whooos and hohohos, then you go around in circles with the camel guide. That's certainly enough, because you definitely don't want to be late for the original Arabic dinner with a belly dancing session and henna painting.
One hour drive from Dubai city
So there's a lot going on in the desert. The falcon-camel meeting always takes place shortly before sunset in the Hotel Bab al Shams – in the middle of the desert. By the way, the name translates as “The Gate to the Sun”. And that's not an exaggeration.
The resort on the edge of the Al Marmoom Reserve can be reached from central Dubai in just under an hour by car. At first glance, the ensemble doesn't look like a luxury hotel. It looks more like an Arabian fortress from one of the old Karl May films. With a wall around it, gates and battlements and lots of palm trees behind it. This is what the fortified oasis villages could have looked like from times long past when they lived here before the oil boom began.
The Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is a little younger. 20 years ago it grew out of the desert sand. It closed in 2022 for a thorough renovation. The Kerzner International hotel group opened it last year under the “rare finds” brand. The name also says it all when it comes to your stay: When you take your first steps through the complex, you find your destination by chance – and you're terrified of getting lost.
A surprise behind every junction
Everything is extremely winding, there is a surprise waiting behind every junction. Secluded courtyards with fountains, lush gardens, romantic stone paths and a central swimming pool area as a true oasis in the sea of sand in the Dubai desert. The highlight: clever architects designed the largest pool as an infinity pool. So you can look endlessly into the desert while swimming. There is also wellness with a hammam, spa and fitness center here.
The fact that there are 105 rooms and 10 suites on site is conveniently concealed by the resort's labyrinthine alley structure. Guests are accommodated in 16 two-story, Arabic-style designer houses on two levels.
Three restaurants, including Al Hadheerah with live entertainment, ensure no one goes hungry in the desert. The Anwa Sunset Rooftop Lounge with excellent Asian cuisine is very casual. Admittedly, sushi isn't really the classic desert meal. But we are in Dubai, so nothing is impossible there anyway.
The most obvious thing is still the best: a desert tour, preferably in the black of the night. The jeep stops somewhere on a dune. Engine off, doors open, get out. The best thing to do now is to lie flat on your back, look up and sink into the glittering millions of stars. The sky over the desert – at night it is pure magic. So why not spend the night in the desert with a sleeping bag? Once the sun has set, the desert cools significantly, a welcome refreshment after a hot day in the emirate.
That's why local outdoor fans like to jet off into the sandy worlds in SUVs on weekends. Find a nice place, a barbecue with family or good friends, and finally a nap under the blanket of stars. However, you should always store your shoes well; a scorpion might think they are a great hiding place. And the next morning he would probably be in great shape if a human foot suddenly pressed him.
A tenth of Dubai is protected
Desert areas cover most of Dubai. The dunes begin on the outskirts of the city and merge with the legendary Rub al-Khali, the largest sand desert in the world. The endless expanse has a lot to offer: meter-high dunes as far as the eye can see, an almost ghostly silence, dramatic sunsets.
Ten percent of the emirate's total area has now been declared a nature reserve. Because the desert is anything but a lifeless wasteland. More than 50 plant species grow in the specially designated Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, which covers 225 square kilometers. There are also 120 species of birds and 43 species of mammals and reptiles. Large parts of the reserve are purely protected areas and reserved exclusively for scientific purposes. There is still enough space for tourists, athletes and nature lovers to hike through the desert sands, climb dunes or enjoy a picnic in the wilderness.
In Dubai, providers offer half-day desert safaris that are designed so that flora and fauna are not disturbed. These are usually tours in a comfortable, air-conditioned four-wheel drive vehicle. If you like it airier and more adventurous, book a ride in an open jeep. A desert camp with entertainment is almost always included. Arabic delicacies await you in a Bedouin tent camp. Belly dancing, fire shows, acrobatics, falcon shows and camel riding, with or without overnight stay in a Bedouin tent.
The start is usually early in the morning
Guided excursions also take you to the protected areas of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. Start is early in the morning. This makes sense because of the heat of the day. With a bit of luck you can see gazelles and oryxes roaming the barren landscapes in search of water. Anyone who books the luxury version will be driven to the five-star desert hotel al-Maha Desert Resort for a sumptuous breakfast buffet.
If you don't want a safari, a trip to a heritage village would be an alternative. There are several of these reconstructed traditional villages in the Dubai desert. They provide interesting insights into the original way of life of the desert dwellers.
The faster tours with a jeep, buggy or quad promise a lot of action. It goes over the dunes at considerable speed. So-called “Moto Cycle Rentals” offer four-wheel-drive fun vehicles on the side of the road. Equipped with GPS and a map, you can explore the area on your own in a desert buggy. You can also rent a vehicle with a driver, who of course knows the routes that promise the most fun. No dune is too high, no maneuver is too daring.
Big Red is 300 meters high and really red
Most speed junkies are drawn to Big Red without it. Near the small town of al-Habab begins a picture-perfect landscape with steep sand dunes. The largest of them is Big Red, 300 meters high. The striking red color comes from sand containing iron oxide. A trip to Dubai's most spectacular dune, also known as al-Hamar, should be done either early in the morning or in the afternoon due to the extreme temperatures.
Motorized vehicles are not the only way to get an adrenaline rush on the steep dunes. Sandboarding is very trendy, it's like snowboarding, only not as cold. In this desert sport, the rider stands sideways on his sandboard and surfs down the steep dunes. Since boarding on sand has the highest friction, you need special boards. These are thicker than a surfboard or snowboard. The height and slope of the dune ensure plenty of speed. The desert fun is comparable to snowboarding in deep snow. You can rent sandboards at popular dunes such as Big Red.
A bike tour also promises a desert feeling. The 86 kilometer long route of the al-Qudra Cycling Track can also be ridden in sections and has useful amenities such as shady rest areas and even toilets in some places. Whether it's a trekking bike, mountain bike or fat bike: you can rent the right bike from the Trek Bicycle Store at the end of al-Qudra Road. Professionals start at sunrise or cycle relaxed into a romantic sunset. The latter should also signal the end of the bike tour, as the route is not illuminated after dark.
From archery to balloon rides
Back to the desert resort: If you want to do something other than count grains of sand, you can contact the hotel's sports representative, a friendly South African with well-pumped upper arms that could easily have been made into footballer's thighs. There's fitness, archery, desert tours in the Land Rover, balloon rides and the aforementioned camel riding. But not only desert ships are available for a trip, but also beautiful Arabian horses.
And the originals. In the region around Bab Al Shams there is a traditional breeding center for the world-famous noble horse breed. And they are by no means just considered tourists: If you see a white Mercedes G-Class SUV with the license plate “Dubai 1” on the lonely transit road on the way back to civilization, you have just met Sheikh Al Maktoum, the ruler of the emirate.
Not far from the resort is the royal stud farm with some of the most valuable racehorses in the world. It is said that the ruler checks on his royal steeds several times a week. The desert is full of surprises.
Participation in the trip was supported by Dubai Tourism. Our standards of transparency and journalistic independence can be found at go2.as/independence.
